Canada Day

2009/07/01

What’s it like where you’re to? as they say here.
 
Here it’s a really beautiful Canada Day.
 
Last morning in St. Anthony then on down the road to Rocky Harbour First to the Labrador Lookout where it’s too fogged in to see much of anything, then off the highway to the pretty town of Port Aux Choix to try The Anchor restaurant. It lives us to its reputation as we — again — sample fish and chips. 
 
Humans refueled, we stop near Green Island Cove to refuel the car at a local gas station come convenience store come lunch counter. The owner lets us know that the capelin — the fish upon which the whales and others feed — are “rolling in” on the shore. We follow his instructions to the beach where members of the community, including delighted children, are scooping up pails of capelin as they roll in on every wave. The waves seem to be entirely made of capelin. It‘s a local delicacy and a great Newfoundland tradition.
In fact, we were served these salted, dried and smoked little fish, along with cod tongues, at The Great Viking Feast on Tuesday night in St. Anthony.. This communal buffet, complete with comedic “Viking” entertainment, was hokey but fun and a great way to wrap up five great days in the Northern Penninsula.
As we watch the capelin, we chat with a retired gentleman who lives right at the shore — Mr. McLean — and he tells us about how brutally cold it is in the winter, lovely as it is that day. He solves a mystery for us — the cylindrical garbage cans are designed so that they don’t lift or blow away in the wind. He also told us about Labrador — which we could see across the strait some 12 miles away — where he and others would visit by motor boat often.

Every community we see on the way south is having a Canada Day Parade – kids, strollers, families, decorated children’s wagons and cars, red and white balloons, happy faces.

We decide to have a look at The Arches provincial park to see for ourselves the  iconic Newfoundland view of the limestone plate worn away by tides.  We miss the ill marked entrance and can’t find a place to turn around for nearly 15 K. Never mind, we’ll catch it on the flip side.

We don’t miss Payne’s bakery, home of date squares and Phil’s favourite marshmallow squares. We discovered it on the way to St. Anthony’s and watched carefully for it on the way south. The owner makes us a cup of tea and we enjoy the home baking and half an hour out of the car.

We get to Rocky Harbour having enjoyed one magnificent panorama after another during the 369 K drive.

Back at Mountain Range cottages, we settle in for a quick salmon dinner and early sleep after watching the community fire works display over the harbour. A fantastic Canada Day, keenly grateful to live in a country of such incredible beauty.

 

 

 

 

 

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